Justine Wilson Dressage

Partnership and Precision; the Artistry of Dressage

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September 2, 2008

The Benefits of Lungeing

 

Here in the United States it appears that we are a society of entrepreneurs, forward thinkers, and believers that we can do it faster, better and cheaper.  I myself am an entrepreneur and subscribe to all of these beliefs in various contexts.

 

Unfortunately, when it comes to training horses we generally have not been able to do it better, faster or cheaper in the long run.  I think that a main reason is that those of us who choose to train our own young dressage horses (and many who do not) have not been informed, or have chosen to ignore the benefits of lungeing.

 

There are several books that offer the very important information on the technique of correctly lungeing the young horse.  Unfortunately today I am not up to writing my own version, as it has already been very well  explained. Here are three:

 

  • Riding Logic by Wilhelm Müseler
  • The Complete Training of Horse and Rider by Alois Podhajsky
  • The New Basic Training of the Young Horse by Ingrid and Reiner Klimke

 

I can’t say this any better, so I will offer you a quote from Alois Podhajsky in regards to starting the young horse on the lunge before riding:

 

“The object of the work on the longe is to gain the horse’s confidence, make him bow to the rider’s will, teach him to balance himself without a rider, and increase his proficiency.  With the establishment of confidence, the foundation of obedience is laid.”

 

I will add however, that a basic rule of thumb for the young horse is if he can’t do it without a rider, he certainly will not be able to do it with one.  The lunge line is the perfect venue for teaching balance in the gaits and in transitions, as well as teaching him to understand the contact with the bit and use the correct musculature to maintain his frame.

 

The added benefits are:

 

  • Even after the horse has been ridden, one can always use it as a tool for exercising a horse that cannot be ridden at a particular time for whatever reason.

 

  • Lungeing before riding can help to supple a stiff animal, just as you would warm up before any athletic endeavor.

 

  • A horse that has been trained to lunge properly can assist the rider in learning how to develop an effective seat.

 

Here are a few things that are really not good ideas:

 

Chasing your young horse with a whip.  In training the horse to be lunged, we use the whip as the equivalent of the leg aid. Your horse needs to understand and accept that the whip will always be pointed towards his haunches.

 

Expecting or even allowing your horse to run like a maniac while on the lunge line.  In addition to it being potentially damaging to tendons and ligaments, you are asking (or allowing) him to be disobedient. Totally counterproductive!! If your horse needs to burn off some steam, turn him out and walk away. On the lunge line, you need to be the one in control.

 

Starting your horse on the line with the side reins already attached.  You should take the opportunity to watch your horse move at all three gaits before attaching the side reins.  This also allows him an opportunity to warm up a bit before being asked for a frame.  Along the same line, never start your horse in side reins before he fully understands walk, trot, canter and halt; and then do so cautiously and gradually.

 

And on that note, I will leave you to reading on and learning how to correctly lunge your horse.

JW

 

September 9, 2008
Finding the Right Instructor for You

 

It was many years ago when I decided that I wanted to become a dressage rider.  I knew very little about it, except that it was beautiful to watch. The riders and their mounts danced around the arena effortlessly.  Thus began my search for someone to teach me how to do that too.

 

My last instructor had been a hunter trainer, and worked at a large facility which had plenty of school horses.  She yelled a lot, particularly at me….or at least it felt that way.  I didn’t know it then, but that was not the best way to get the information through to me.  I went through a few dressage trainers who were screamers, each time ending my time with them feeling somewhat abused and that I had to be the most retarded rider on the face of the earth.

 

Then I met a woman who taught dressage in a different way.  She communicated in a positive manner, her voice was steady and calm. She praised me when I executed her instructions correctly, and gently corrected me when I didn’t.  She explained the theory behind what we were doing, and always gave me a goal to work towards.  It wasn’t long before I was actually riding well and gaining confidence in what I was doing.  I was riding at Training Level!!

 

Most of us are adults when we decide to take on the art of dressage. I was not and if I knew then what I know now about myself, I would have spent a lot more energy figuring out what exactly my goals were and how I learned……which leads me to my first piece of advice in searching for a dressage instructor.

 

What do you want to do?

 

Time to take inventory. What are your current goals in regards to dressage? What resources do you have/not have in order to pursue those goals (time, money, horse)?  In your search for a trainer, you need to be able to communicate this information to him/her.  Your inventory may change later, but for now you need to find someone who listens, understands and is willing and capable of helping you achieve what you want now.

 

How do you want to be taught?

 

This is about your learning style. If I had been paying attention when I was younger I would have noticed that being yelled at makes me nervous and emotionally distraught. Not very productive when riding a horse, and in fact had the opposite effect of what was desired. I would shut down and nothing would get accomplished (or learned), my horse often would be a nervous wreck.

 

Now I would guess that most riders fit into the same category as I do, however, some need a little more energy than what the calm, quiet type of instructor has to offer. Some need more repetition, some more visual input.  Think about a positive learning experience you have had in the past. What inspired you? What did your teacher say or do that made things click?

 

It’s not easy to find that perfect fit, but at the very least you need to find an instructor who doesn’t pull any emotional triggers in a negative way. You are paying for information. You need to get it, in a way that makes sense to you.

 

The most difficult piece of it all….finding someone who is qualified.

 

In the United States, unlike the European countries,  we have no regulations regarding riding instructors.  We have no governing body which determines whether or not a person is actually qualified to instruct riders on their horses. Think about that. You need to get a license to cut someone else’s hair, a certification to massage or credentials to teach Kindergarten…none of which are potentially life threatening.  Yet anyone, anyone can be a riding instructor.  Crazy, huh?

 

There are two organizations that I am aware of that offer certifications specifically for dressage instruction.  One is the United States Dressage Federation, the other is the American Riding Instructors Association.  The reason I bring this up is that if an instructor has taken the time to demonstrate proficiency in teaching riders and training horses in order to earn a certification, there is a good chance they know what they are doing.  This doesn’t guarantee that they will meet your other criteria though.

 

It is a popular trend among dressage trainers to feel justified in using their achievements (awards and medals) as qualification for riding instruction and training. I personally don’t believe that performing at any level with a qualifying score of 60% or above any number of times guarantees that you have the tools or the skills to communicate and teach someone else how to do that. However, for now that is just my opinion. Hopefully sometime in the future, the rules will change and anyone who teaches riding instruction will be required to get a license.

 

Until then, your job of finding a good instructor for yourself is a bit more complicated.  There are many, many ethical and gifted trainers out there who are not certified, and do not even compete.  Your best bet is to spend time watching any instructor teach and train (more than once) before making a commitment to a lesson, or any type of training package. If your prospective instructor has an issue with this, find one who doesn’t.

 

For those of you who are already working with someone, look over this. How does your instructor measure up?  Are you getting what you need out of your lessons?

 

You should be. You are paying for it.

JW

 

September 23, 2008
Curb bits and Draw reins and Spurs……Oh MY!

 

Essentially this article is on misuse of equipment.  I chose these three items because there is not only a lot of misunderstanding regarding their use, there is a lot of not understanding their use. Please keep in mind however; these are not the only things that can create grief for your horse.  An improperly fitting saddle, hands that are not quiet and steady and sensitive or an unbalanced seat can cause difficulties in training and cause just as much damage to your horse physically as the above mentioned items when used incorrectly.

 

The Curb Bit

 

I personally would like to see the use of the curb bit in dressage completely go away, but that is not likely to happen anytime soon, as the curb bit has been used for centuries. So here is what its intended use is.

 

The curb bit is used in 3rd level and above here in the US, and it is intended to enhance the horse’s ability to collect by applying pressure to the tongue, lower jaw and poll.  Its basic design is that of a lever.  Reins are attached to the end of a shank and when pressure  is applied to the reins in a backwards fashion (pulling) the port, a curve created in the center of the bit to varying degrees depending on the  actual bit, lowers onto and applies pressure to the tongue and bars of the horse’s mouth.  There is a chain which runs just behind the chin that applies pressure to the lower jaw. In addition, the action of engaging the bit applies pressure on the poll by drawing the headstall down towards the mouth.  Basic physics dictates that the longer the shank, and the higher the port, potentially the more severe the action.  When properly fitted to your horse, a 45 degree angle is the maximum that should be created, in relation to the horse’s mouth, when the bit is engaged with the curb chain attached appropriately.

 

So, it works.  Or does it? A tie down will keep a horse from raising his head. Does that mean he is on the bit? Maybe a curb bit can assist in creating collection. Is it because the pressure is causing pain? Obviously it must be causing some discomfort, especially when used with a heavy hand. I don’t see any other possible effect that it could have, as the horse’s poll, jaw and tongue is not where the horse collects, it is in the back and haunches . It is also my understanding that discomfort causes tension.  Back to the training scale…..

 

I see quite a few very good international riders use their snaffle rein almost entirely, only creating the illusion that the curb rein is engaged for the most part, using the curb in a very sensitive manner when necessary. I see others rely heavily on the curb, using it as if the horse would run right through their hands if they did not…and I am not talking about locally. I am talking about Olympic medal winners. To me this is blatant abuse of a device which should,  in this day and enlightened age,  have questionable use in dressage.  I don’t know what else to say about it, except that it appears to me in these cases the basics in training somehow were passed by. I am wondering why someone isn’t on the sidelines screaming “Get that bit out of your horse’s mouth and go retrain him!!” I am appalled that judges are turning a blind eye.

 

The Draw Reins

 

Hmm.  Interesting topic.   The general consensus here in the US is that the use of draw reins is absolutely taboo. However, we still use them, often in secret. And ironically, we are the ones who typically use them incorrectly.

 

In Europe, many, many trainers use a draw rein type device, called a running side rein, for use on the lunge line when starting a horse.  This device is actually more effective than a standard side rein in that it allows a horse to lower his head down and forward while still maintaining the correct contact with the bit.  Anyone familiar with training a young horse to accept the contact will understand the benefit of this, as a standard side rein causes discomfort when the horse takes any position that is not ‘on the bit’.  And it does encourage them to stretch down and out, the only truly uncomfortable place for their head is when it is up and the top line is tense.

 

Ok, back to the draw rein. Not intended to create ‘on the bit’, or down and stretch on a young horse with a rider on the horse’s back.  That’s the rider’s job.  If you don’t know how to do this effectively stay off of young horses.

 

Not to be used as a crutch to keep any horse on the bit, however I will qualify this one.  In training the rider….not the horse, the rider to feel the appropriate connection on a horse that is not necessarily willing (and many horses are not willing with an inexperienced rider) it can be a useful tool.  You will know when the connection is understood by the rider because the draw reins will become slack while the snaffle maintains the correct connection.  The frame will be correct over the horse’s back with the nose on or slightly ahead of the vertical. Trainers need to be sensitive to when this is no longer necessary, and to when it is no longer working.  It goes without saying; trainers also need to understand the use of the draw rein if they choose to use them to assist their riders.

 

Never, and I repeat, NEVER ever, use the draw reins in a manner that causes the horse to go behind the bit, vertical or puts his nose to his chest.  Doing so causes the horse to resist contact, break over his top line and travel on the forehand.  This is damaging to the horse psychologically and physically.

 

Not sure about how to use them correctly, then don’t.  If you see someone using them any manner described in the above paragraph, say something.  If you see someone using them correctly (You will know when the connection is understood by the rider because the draw reins will become slack while the snaffle maintains the correct connection.) don’t immediately condemn them.  Educate yourself for a moment by watching…..and then take into consideration how you ride your horse. 

 

The Spur

 

What really is the point in riding with spurs?  That, my friends is a very good question.  There is a school of thought which dwells amongst the amateur riders that there should be no need for spurs.  There is another school of thought which dictates that the bigger the spurs, the better the rider.  I think that the truth lies in how the spurs are used and if their use is effective.

 

The spur is not intended to punish the horse.  It is intended to make the horse extremely sensitive to the leg, without overuse of the leg.  As a very basic example, let’s say you are not wearing spurs. You apply pressure with your calf to ask the horse to move forward. No response. You apply more pressure. Still not the response you desire. So finally, you pull both legs off of your horse’s sides and slam them back down into his sides to get him to move forward.  Regardless of the result, you have now just overused your leg, creating tension up through and into your seat, ultimately creating tension in your horse’s back thus encouraging him NOT to move forward.  Somewhat counterproductive, wouldn’t you say?

 

The most sensitive riders are able to create forward from the thought of forward.  If that thought doesn’t take immediately, the heel turns in slightly to allow the spurs to touch the horse directly behind the girth, most commonly without any added force. Why does this work better than pressure from the calf?  Try this:

 

With the palm of your hand, put as much pressure on your thigh as you possibly can. Notice the sensation. Now take your index finger and poke lightly somewhere in the vicinity of where you applied the pressure.  Hopefully this demonstrates the difference in feel to the horse. The point of lightly concentrated pressure makes a far bigger impression than that of a greater area of stronger pressure.

 

Are you ready for spurs?

 

If your seat is confirmed and you are in control of the motion of your legs at all gaits, I say yes.  If you are not confirmed in your seat and don’t have control of the motion of your legs and you still decide to use spurs, beware.  Constantly banging your horse with the spur will make him insensitive, thus defeating the purpose of using the spur entirely.

 

So, how long a spur?  What shape? What design?

 

The rule of thumb is to have a spur the correct length and shape to be able to touch your horse just behind the girth with a very slight turn of the heel. So, this will vary from person to person, and from horse to horse. You should not need to displace your lower leg, and if your thigh and hip become involved, forget it.  I personally prefer a blunt edge; however there is some dispute as to whether or not a rowel is kinder.  I believe that when the spur is used correctly, the blunt edge, or rounded edge spurs are more effective.

 

See you in two weeks…

 

JW